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Tuesday, August 18, 2015
Yard & Garden
Yard
and Garden
August
22, 2015
Q. I am having a hard time controlling weeds in my
garden. I do not like to use weed killers in the garden, so I pull the
weeds by hand, but they just break off and come back within a few days.
Is there some way to get rid of the weeds without weed killer?
A. When soil is dry it may hold plant roots tightly causing
the weed to break off and then regrow as you have described. Weeds are
much more easily removed from moist to even soggy soil immediately after
irrigating. For some weeds this is effective even when the weeds are very
close to the desirable plants. Some weeds have a more fibrous root system
and may pull us much soil at the base of desirable plants, or even dislodge the
desirable plant when pulled. In that case a knife or other tool to carefully
cut the roots just below the soil line or below the crown of a grassy weed may
allow you to manually remove the weed while doing minimal damage to the desired
plant.
Further away from your garden plants you
can use a hoe to manually remove the weeds. I like to use a scuffle hoe
that cuts the weeds roots just below the soil line. The weed can then be
raked from the garden. A scuffle hoe disturbs the soil less than a
chopping action type hoe which disturbs the soil and brings new weed seeds to
the surface where they can sprout and perpetuate the weed problems.
Another way to minimize weed problems is
to use mulch to cover the soil and reduce weed growth. Some gardeners use
black plastic under their plants. The black plastic eliminates sunlight
needed for germination of weed seeds, but it can become hot enough in New
Mexico’s sunlight to burn the garden plants. A covering of organic mulch
may help avoid overheating. The organic mulch (straw, wood chips,
newspaper, or other biodegradable material) may be used without the plastic as
well. A thick layer will also exclude light and reduce weed seed
germination. Perennial weeds may still come through the mulch since they
do not need light to germinate, but the mulch will help maintain soil moisture
making the weeds easier to pull. Organic mulches also moderate soil
temperature changes and may protect plants from our intense summer heat.
The soil in direct sunlight can be 10 to 20, or more degrees, hotter than the
surrounding air.
Weeds you have pulled can be composted to
use as soil amendment in the garden next year if they are not diseased or have
not produced seeds. If your compost pile heats properly the weed and
disease concerns become lessened. Another way to be sure weed seeds do
not germinate next year is to put the weeds into a black plastic bag in a sunny
location for a few days before putting them into the compost. The weeds
should be freshly pulled so that they are still moist when you do this.
They heat of the sun will kill most of the weed seeds and potential plant
diseases in a few days in the solar heated plastic bag. There should then
be less concern about perpetuating the weeds with the compost next year.
If you eventually become so frustrated
with the weeds that you decide to use chemicals, be sure to choose a product
labeled for use around the desirable plants you are growing and then read,
understand, and follow the directions.
Send
your gardening questions to Yard and Garden, Attn: Dr. Curtis Smith, NMSU
Agricultural Science Center, 1036 Miller Rd. SW, Los Lunas, NM 87031. You may
also send to cwsmith@nmsu.edu or leave a message at https://www.facebook.com/NMSUExtExpStnPubs. Curtis W. Smith, Ph.D.,
is an Extension Horticulture Specialist, retired from New Mexico State
University’s Cooperative Extension Service. NMSU and the U.S. Department
of Agriculture cooperating.
Tuesday, July 28, 2015
Yard & Garden
Yard
and Garden
August
1, 2015
Q. I
have tried to grow new trumpet vines and grapes from trimmings from the older
plants in my garden. I am not having much success. Do you have
suggestions?
A. Success
growing new plants from cuttings take from grapes and trumpet vines depends on
several factors. Timing and the status of the stems used for cuttings is
important. Use of rooting hormones may also greatly increase your chances
for success. Good soil and adequate moisture are also important.
Grapes are usually pretty easy to grow from cuttings if they cuttings are
placed in the garden or into pots of good potting soil quickly after they are
cut. They will often grow new roots if the cuttings are just placed in
water. Do not let the cuttings dry before planting them. You can put them
in water immediately after cutting and then put into soil a day of two later if
necessary.
Hardwood cuttings are those that have become woody and are often the cuttings
collected in the later winter or early spring before growth begins.
Rooting hormone placed on the basal portion of the cutting will help, but is
not necessary. It is critical, however, to keep track of the “proximal”
and “distal” portions of the stem. The proximal end of the stem is that
part that was closest to the soil when the cutting was cut. Many gardeners
make sure to make a slanted cut when they cut the stem from the parent plant to
clearly identify the proximal end. This proximal end must be the end put
into the soil. If the distal portion of the cutting (the opposite end) is
placed in the soil, it will not grow roots even if treated with rooting
hormones. The plant knows the difference between up and down!
Softwood cuttings are new stems collected within about a month after growth has
begun. The stems are very tender and often form roots fairly easily - if
they do not dry out and die before roots form. Their tissues are soft and
not as completely differentiated (cells types determined) as in other types of
cuttings. These are identified by the fact that the outer layers of the
stems are easily punctured by a thumbnail.
Semi-hardwood cuttings are a little older than softwood cuttings. Their
epidermal tissues have begun to harden and resist damage by a thumbnail.
There internal cells are also more differentiated and may be more resistant to
forming roots. However, for some plants these are actually the easiest
cuttings from which to start new plants.
At this time of year another useful technique is to use a process called
layering. In the process of layering, the stems are induced to form roots
before they are severed from the parent plant. Grapes and other vining
plants are easily layered because their stems may be easily bent to the
ground. These stems should be wounded by scraping the bark, cutting
through the outer layers, or by slicing partially through the stem before
burying it in the soil. The wound causes sugars produced in the leaves to
accumulate at the point of the wound and to feed development of roots at that
point. After a few months new roots should have formed and the new plant
may be separated from the parent plant and transplanted, or just allowed grow
where it formed. It may also be induced to form roots in a large pot
which will make transplanting less traumatic for the new plant.
The type of layering described above is called “simple layering”. There
are other forms of layering that are useful for other plants, but in the case
of vining plants like grapes and trumpet vines, simple layering is an easy and
successful way to start new plants when cutting propagation fails.
Send
your gardening questions to Yard and Garden, Attn: Dr. Curtis Smith, NMSU
Agricultural Science Center, 1036 Miller Rd. SW, Los Lunas, NM 87031. You may
also send to cwsmith@nmsu.edu or leave a message at https://www.facebook.com/NMSUExtExpStnPubs. Curtis W. Smith,
Ph.D., is an Extension Horticulture Specialist, retired from New Mexico State
University’s Cooperative Extension Service. NMSU and the U.S. Department
of Agriculture cooperating.
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
July 4-H Flash Newsletter 2015
Click on the link to view the July 4-H Flash Newsletter. We have some workshops coming up, as well as important information. Check it out!!
July 4-H Flash Newsletter 2015
July 4-H Flash Newsletter 2015
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
Tuesday, June 9, 2015
Yard & Garden
Yard and Garden
Q. Is composting really worth the trouble? How often must I turn my compost pile? It seems that the compost takes forever to form.
A. Organic matter in the form of compost is very beneficial to some garden plants grown in our soil. Most of our common vegetable garden plants, annual flowering plants, and many garden perennial flowers grow much better if New Mexico soils are amended with compost. Many xeriscape landscape plants do not need organic matter added to the soil. However, some grow much more rapidly if they have compost added, but some plants for xeriscapes die much more rapidly if organic matter is added to the soil. Whether or not you would choose to add compost to your garden soil depends on which plants you are growing.
You can purchase compost in bags at many garden stores or in bulk from commercial compost manufacturers in some areas of New Mexico. You can also make your own compost. Knowing how beneficial compost is to many of the plants grown in our soils and that throwing compostable organic matter into the garbage helps fill municipal landfills, I prefer to compost as much as I can. The more rapidly the municipal landfills reach maximum capacity and new landfills must be created, often farther from town, the greater the costs to maintain and move landfills.
The process of making compost does not need to be difficult. An old saying is “compost happens”. That means organic things naturally decompose to create compost, even if we do not try to cause them to decompose. If we treat them like material in a landfill where material as dry as possible and where oxygen is excluded, composting is very slow, but still happens. If we try to optimize composting to create compost as rapidly as possible, it does become complex, scientific, and time consuming. However, there is middle ground.
NMSU Extension Publications can help you by providing guidelines for composting. Backyard Composting, NMSU Extension Guide H-110 athttp://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/H-110/welcome.html and Vermicomposting, NMSU Extension Guide H-164 athttp://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/H164.pdf are two good sources of information to help you compost. Getting exact balances of nitrogen and carbon containing materials in not critical, but maintaining proper moisture and oxygen levels is very important. This is where turning the compost pile come into play. The compost pile should be moistened to keep the composting material about as moist as a damp, wrung-out wash rag. If it is too moist, unpleasant smells may develop. Turning the compost introduces oxygen to cause decomposition to proceed in an aerobic and less unpleasantly fragrant manner. If it is too moist in the center and smells are not a problem, turning is not imperative, but the process of composting will be slowed. Failure to keep the compost pile moist enough will also slow the composting process. This is one way to avoid development of unpleasant fragrances, but by turning the compost frequently and maintaining proper moisture levels will optimize compost development. The frequency of turning the compost pile depends on the composition of materials placed into the compost pile and their rate of decomposition. However, turning the compost once a week to once a month will probably work for you.
This kind of “turning” refers to turning a compost pile with a shovel or spading fork to mix fresh, dry material into the center of the compost pile as well as aerating the compost pile. In the case of the more high-tech compost barrels or tumblers, turning should be done every day, but this is not so great a chore. These high tech composters do require more attention to the composition of the materials added to the composter and patience to let the material completely compost before adding more material or harvesting the compost. Some people love each kind of composting. You can choose your favorite style or you can purchase premade compost. It will definitely benefit your vegetable and flower garden to add organic matter in the form of compost.
Send your gardening questions to Yard and Garden, Attn: Dr. Curtis Smith, NMSU Agricultural Science Center, 1036 Miller Rd. SW, Los Lunas, NM 87031. You may also send tocwsmith@nmsu.edu or leave a message athttps://www.facebook.com/NMSUExtExpStnPubs. Curtis W. Smith, Ph.D., is an Extension Horticulture Specialist, retired from New Mexico State University’s Cooperative Extension Service. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.
Monday, June 8, 2015
Cow/Calf Corner
COW/CALF CORNER
The Newsletter
From the
Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service
June 8, 2015
In this Issue:
Latest meat
trade data encouraging
Derrell S. Peel,
Oklahoma State University Extension Livestock Marketing Specialist
What to do with
the bull after the breeding season?
Glenn Selk;
Oklahoma State University Emeritus Extension Animal Scientist
Latest meat
trade data encouraging
Derrell S. Peel,
Oklahoma State University Extension Livestock Marketing Specialist
The
latest trade data for April generally showed relative improvement in meat trade
despite a variety of continuing challenges. The strong U.S. dollar
continues to work against U.S. meat exports and support increased
imports. The avian influenza outbreak continues to grow and impact
poultry trade; while high prices and limited supplies are the biggest
challenges for the beef sector.
Despite
bans or restrictions in most markets for U.S. poultry, broiler exports in April
were fractionally higher than year ago levels holding year to date broiler
exports to a decrease of 8.4 percent compared to last year. Most
importantly among broiler export markets is Mexico, which was up 1.5 percent
year over year in April and is up 4.8 percent for the year to date.
Mexico is by far the largest broiler export market, accounting for 21 percent
of total 2014 broiler exports. Year to date broiler exports to China and
South Korea are down over 90 percent along with zero exports to Russia (banned
in 2014 prior to avian influenza). Turkey exports were down 27.2 percent
in April contributing to an 11.4 percent year to date decline compared to last
year.
Pork
exports were up 10.9 percent in April, cutting the year to year date pork
export decrease to 7.4 percent. This is the first year over year increase
in monthly pork exports in 2015. Increased pork supplies and lower pork
prices are overcoming the negative impacts of the strong U.S. dollar to boost pork exports. Among major
pork export markets, year over year April exports were stronger to Japan (up
16.2 percent) and Mexico (up 15.2 percent), China (up 1.4 percent), and South
Korea (up 43.2 percent) while Canada was down 13.9 percent.
April
U.S. beef exports were down 3.6 percent year over year, the smallest monthly
decrease so far this year. Year to date beef exports are down 8.4 percent
compared to 2014. Increased year over year April exports to Japan (up 4.8
percent) and South Korea (up 21.7 percent) contributed to year to date
increases in U.S. beef exports to both countries. However, North American
beef trade is more troubling with April decreases to Canada (down 10.4 percent)
and Mexico (down 25.2 percent) contributing to year to date decreases in beef
exports to both countries. The looming threat of tariffs related to
Country of Origin Labeling adds to the prospects for weaker exports to Canada
and Mexico in the coming months.
April
U.S. beef imports were up 27.5 percent compared to one year ago, the smallest
monthly increase year over year so far this year. Year to date beef
imports are up 40.9 percent compared to one year ago. Australia (up 36.7
percent) and New Zealand (up 28.2 percent) were the leading sources of beef
imports in April along with Canada (up 4.6 percent) and Mexico (up 61.4
percent) compared to April, 2014. Beef imports from Brazil, though less
than 4 percent of total beef imports in April, were up 95 percent year over
year and are up 135 percent for the year to date compared to last year.
What to do with
the bull after the breeding season?
Glenn Selk;
Oklahoma State University Emeritus Extension Animal Scientist
Maintaining
a 60 to 75 day breeding and calving season can be one of the most important
management tools for cow calf producers. A uniform, heavier, and more
valuable calf crop is one key reason for keeping the breeding season short.
Plus, more efficient cow supplementation and cow herd health programs are a
product of a short breeding season.
However,
many small producers lose all of these money-making advantages, just because
they do not have a pen or trap that will hold the bull away from cows and
heifers for 9 to 10 months of the year. In an effort to learn what others
do to overcome this obstacle, we had an email conversation with a Clemson
University beef cattle specialist who passed along the method of fencing that
they use to separate bulls from their cows.
They
use a minimum of 2 acres per bull for their bull pasture. Well fertilized
introduced pastures (such as bermudagrass) in Eastern Oklahoma (with adequate
rainfall) can stand this stocking density. However, native grass
situations will require more acreages per bull unless the producer wants to
feed a great deal of hay and supplement during much of the year.
They
use a five strand, high tensile fence with the strands spaced at 10 inches
apart. High tensile wire is a heavy gauge, smooth wire that can be made
as a permanent system with in-line wire stretchers The first strand is 10
inches above the ground. The end result is a fence that is 50 inches
tall.
The
fence, of course, must be electrically charged. A GOOD high voltage, low
amperage fence energizer or charger provides the energy source. The
Clemson design uses the 2nd , 3rd, and 5th wire as charged wires, with the
first and the 4th wire attached to grounds. See diagram below. The grounds
will be most effective if they are set deep into the soil. This will
allow for good “grounding” even when summer droughts cause top soil to become
quite dry. Different designs may fit different situations. Some
designs electrify the first wire (from the bottom) and make the second wire a
ground. Talking to a commercial representative from a reputable fencing
supply company can be very helpful.
Oklahoma State
University, in compliance with Title VI and VII of the Civil Rights Act of
1964, Executive Order 11246 as amended, Title IX of the Education Amendments of
1972, Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990, and other federal laws and
regulations, does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national
origin, sex, age, religion, disability, or status as a veteran in any of its
policies, practices or procedures. This includes but is not limited to
admissions, employment, financial aid, and educational services.
References within this publication to any specific commercial product, process,
or service by trade name, trademark, service mark, manufacturer, or otherwise
does not constitute or imply endorsement by Oklahoma Cooperative Extension
Service.
Friday, June 5, 2015
Tuesday, June 2, 2015
Monday, June 1, 2015
Yard & Garden
Yard and Garden
Q. I have a plumeria plant that a dear friend of mine gave me. She passed away unexpectedly last fall and I am not doing something right. I do realize these are tropical plants, but I cannot seem to keep the leaves on them. The younger one just now put three leaves on, but the large one in the back room still is just stalks. What would you recommend? I feel compelled to keep them going since I no longer have the friend who gave them to me! She brought them from Houston. She did tell me to let them go dormant in the winter, but what else do I need to get them growing?
Judy O.
Silver City
A. Plumeria plants can go dormant in the winter – my mother had some that she kept in her garage and watered them very little during the winter near Houston. The leaves would drop, but when the warmth returned and she began watering they would produce new leaves. Your plumeria that are just stalks – are they getting watered? Is it still cool in that location (that should change soon anyway)?
Another consideration is that many tropical plants need more light than we often give them indoors. If they have only a little light, they produce new leaves, but drop older leaves to remain in “balance” with the available light. Production and maintenance of leaves requires energy (stored carbohydrates produced by photosynthesis). Without adequate light they just cannot support more than a few leaves. This depends on the type of plant. My mother grew her plumeria plants outside in direct sunlight in the summer. They did receive some afternoon shade. At her location on the Texas Gulf Coast the lower elevation and greater cloudiness protects plants somewhat from excess sunlight. The humidity there is also helpful. If you can provide a location with bright light, but not direct sunlight for most of the day and adequate moisture, you should be able to get them growing. If you keep them indoors put them next to a large south or east facing window with sheer curtains. If you grow them outside, find a place with some shade, but as much brightness as possible. Since they have been indoors, do not put them in direct sunlight without gradually acclimating them over a period of a couple of weeks.
You should not begin fertilizing until after they have begun producing leaves. After leaves are produced you can begin fertilizing with a flowering houseplant fertilizer. Such fertilizer contains more phosphorus than foliage plant fertilizer because phosphorus promotes flowering in plants. The fertilizer label should indicate a second number (phosphorus percentage as large as or larger than the first number (nitrogen percentage) in the fertilizer analysis.
Send your gardening questions to Yard and Garden, Attn: Dr. Curtis Smith, NMSU Agricultural Science Center, 1036 Miller Rd. SW, Los Lunas, NM 87031. You may also send tocwsmith@nmsu.edu or leave a message athttps://www.facebook.com/NMSUExtExpStnPubs. Curtis W. Smith, Ph.D., is an Extension Horticulture Specialist, retired from New Mexico State University’s Cooperative Extension Service. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.
Tuesday, May 19, 2015
Yard & Garden
Yard
and Garden
May
23, 2015
Q. I have a question today is
related to rabbit wire or 1/2" by 1/2" wire. We use this to keep
squirrels, snakes and birds, etc. out of our garden.
While installing this wire I noticed that it is coated with lead. In the past
we have used bird netting which worked well but over time breaks down and holes
appear, thus letting these pests rob us of our vegetables. The question is,
does the lead (toxic material) pose a problem over time breaking down then
leaching into the soil? Also will the plants absorb the metal and translocate
them to the edible parts of the plant? We grow mostly tomatoes, chiles, and a
few types of lettuces.
A.
Are you
sure the wire mesh is coated with lead? Most of fencing materials such as
what you have described are galvanized – coated with zinc. Lead is indeed
toxic if you ingest it in sufficient quantities. Lead paint was banned
from household paints many years ago and more recently from paint used for toys
and furniture. The problem was mostly from direct ingestion of paint
chips or children chewing on painted surfaces. Elemental lead (metallic
lead) used to coat wire would be very insoluble in water at pH
(acidity/alkalinity) levels common in the garden environment. In this
form it has a high affinity for soil particles and will bind to the soil and
will not be easily absorbed by plant roots. Since minerals must be
dissolved in water to be absorbed by plants, the chances for entering the
plants and creating toxicity problems are minimal. Even plant leaves
(lettuce) that come into direct contact with elemental lead will probably not
absorb the lead, but there would be a very small chance that it could be
adsorbed on the leaf surface. Keep lettuce plants and whatever will be
eaten from directly contacting the wire, if it is coated with lead.
Check your fencing material again to be sure it is indeed lead that has been
used to coat it. It is more likely to be coated with zinc. Zinc is
a plant micronutrient, meaning that plants need small quantities of it so you
ingest zinc when you eat plant materials all the time. In high
concentrations it can be toxic, but that is again very unlikely. Many
people actually take zinc dietary supplements. Zinc is also relatively
insoluble in water at pH levels common in the garden. We must sometimes
treat soil or plants with zinc to overcome deficiencies in the plants.
If the wire proves to be coated with lead you may want to purchase galvanized
fencing material. You can tell the difference because lead is quite soft
and easily scratched from the surface of the wire. Zinc is much harder
and will require steel or some hard material to scratch it from the wire.
Send
your gardening questions to Yard and Garden, Attn: Dr. Curtis Smith, NMSU
Agricultural Science Center, 1036 Miller Rd. SW, Los Lunas, NM 87031. You may
also send to cwsmith@nmsu.edu or leave a message at https://www.facebook.com/NMSUExtExpStnPubs. Curtis W. Smith,
Ph.D., is an Extension Horticulture Specialist, retired from New Mexico State
University’s Cooperative Extension Service. NMSU and the U.S. Department
of Agriculture cooperating.
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